Whales and shooting stars

For two weeks now I've called Kenya home. Tonight I can hear bush babies and crickets as their calls warm the night air. I feel their buzz, these last two weeks in Kenya have been exciting, exhausting, emotional and thought provoking. 

I arrived a day late to the project. Tom, an English ex-footballer come accountant, and I shared an eventful 4 hour cab ride to Shimoni, on the southern edge of Kenya. From corrupt cops to a flat tyre to the most awkward rip in my pants, we laughed as we played games with John our amazing local cab driver.

After a less eventful boat ride we arrived on Wasini island across the channel from Shimoni, which was to be home for the next two weeks. Wasini island is a coral island, and everywhere you step sharp coral rag reminds you of what the seas were once like, high and mighty. From the coral cliff edge you can see the channel and the traditional boats ferrying up and down, some powered by the wind, others by petrol. Its a breathtaking sight as African fish hawks dart through the sea breeze, baobab trees sprinkled along the coastline, broad and strong.

And once again I was close to my beloved sea. A tidal beach appeared and disappeared depending on the time of day. Most afternoons I spent pretending to be a fish, testing my strength against the waves. It was soul soothing to be that close to the water and in it everyday.

While on Wasini Island I was taking part in the marine research project. Basically, we load onto a traditional boat, lovingly named Barden, and hit the high seas. We follow a set pattern and rotate around the boat forever searching for beloved cetaceans- dolphins and whales.

On our first day we saw a huge pod of bottle nose dolphins. About 20 of them. They were beautiful as they played in the waves. They are so playful, and their bellies go a ruby pink as they blush. As we followed tourist boats came and went, following the strict Kenyan guidelines to ensure minimal human disturbance to these kings of the sea. To be honest, I wasn't sure what to expect, I've never been big a fan of dolphins, sure they are pretty and I'm jealous of how well they move in the water, but they belong to that world and I this.

But seeing them frolic, and behave in such similar ways to us brought it home for me. This is what conservation is about, education and informing people and giving these animals a place to do just that, frolic and be.

The next two weeks were a blur of bobbing on the sea, bottle nose dolphins (which we were lucky enough to see two more times), humpback dolphins (these are crazy looking, google image these things) and humpback whales.

Whales used to be my favourite animal (till I met coral) and I have never seen one before. So you can imagine my delight as we found ourselves following the instructions of far out fisher man pointing out to the high seas where they saw whale activity. It was like a wild goose chase, all eyes peeled out to see, praying to spot the fin, the blow, the tail. And sure enough, there they were. 

The first day we saw three very spaced out humpback whales that travel through these waters south after breeding. Their presence enough is a soothing sign that we humans haven't messed up too bad (yet) and the sound and sight of their blows as they come to surface for air stirs your soul. Gentle giants isn't enough to describe the calming essence they exude.

For two days we were lucky enough to see them. The second day on virtually flat seas as two head bobbed and flopped their tails. You could see the barnacles that call that whale home. It was stunning and I'll never forget it.

Aside from stalking whales and dolphins we travel to various sights and do snorkel transects. You can imagine my delight as I splash into the water and see coral I know (and love). There is was Porites Poritiidae and Galaxea, Occuliniidae. It felt like coming home again, every time I donned my mask and fins and threw myself into the fresh sea water in search of turtles and rays.

My favourite snorkel spot we happened upon on my last day on marine. Martin, a lovely, smart Kenyan bird researcher joined us for the day armed with binoculars and a smile. We made our way to Kisite, a tiny coral island home to a turn bird colony that Martin informed me hasn't been researched in over 40 years.

We arrived and bobbed on the boat waiting for the low tide so we could get to the island. As we paddled in I could see my feet through the crystal clear water. I could see fish darting out of my way, I would feel the sun on my back, the coral rags tug at my feet. Overhead birds swooped and swirled. We got to the island and upon inspection Martin concluded there are no nests... yet. You could see the eagerness and excitement in his eyes.

And so that concluded my time on marine conservation. This last weekend I spent a magical weekend in Mombasa. A wonderful city, with so much character. Tom and I explored the old town before he flew home, seeing the sights and taking in the thousands of faces as we wove through people's daily business. The Fort Jesus was wonderful and such an insight into Kenya's rich history, all you had to do was close your eyes, breath in the sea air and you were back three hundred years, armed with a musket facing enemy ships off the horizon.

And now, after a 5 hour bus trip, which I adored- best way to travel in Kenya, I am back here, having farewelled Tom, my best friend of the last two weeks (and bank- thank you for putting up with me!), ready to conduct research on primates and birds in the Shimoni forest.

I am already missing life on the island. Watching for shooting stars with Tom to the sound of waves crashing. The kids as they shout "Jambo!" (hi!) and basically fall over waving at you. The askaris (guards) who always made me laugh. My last afternoon on the island I spent sea shell searching on the low tide shore, a group of girls came to say jambo. Within minutes they were washing my hair as I sat in the low tide water, giggling as they caressed the biodegradable shampoo into my hair, careful to keep it out of my eyes. I'll never forget their smiles and laughter.

But tomorrow we go in search of birds along a new transect. The sun will be shining, the breeze will stroke my hair and I know I'll not only be counting birds but my blessings.

Thank you Kenya for warming my back and my heart.

Whales and shooting stars