Sunday, May 20, 2012

Paradise in paradise


Paradise in paradise. You know when you see that beautiful desert island in the middle of stunning clear aqua water, palm trees reaching to the sky? Yeah, well that is where I spent my weekend, on this coral built island called Bird Island.

And it was postcard worthy paradise. On Thursday a group of us made our way to the airport and clambered into this tiny 14 seater propeller plane. 





For 30 minutes we carved through the clouds heading north. We bobbed in the turbulence breaking free of the cumulonimbus clouds to gaze upon our oasis of sand in the vastness of blue, a little island surrounded by white beaches.



We landed on this patch of grass and stumbled out, jaws at our feet. I could see three giant tortoises. I could hear hundreds of turns chirping and swooping in the wind. I could feel the built up tension and exhaustion leave my body as we were greeted with ice tea and shown to our little huts.


I shared a hut with Tara, a hilarious young Canadian who when I’m around I’m the funniest version of myself, and Leanne, a lovely, quirky Essex hairdresser. After dumping our bags I grabbed my fins and headed for the sea. Splash, fins on and I was out snorkeling among the sea grass spotting unicorn fish and huge schools of jacks. Nicole and I spotted a couple of green turtles, one juvenile was missing its back right fin. Its hard to frown while wearing a mask and snorkelling.


After a delightful dinner I patrolled the beach searching for turtles laying their nests on the beach, following an instinctual dance with the sand and moonlight. None, I’ve heard how picky they are. And after a good nights sleep on a soft mattress, I was up to watch the sun rise. 





As the orange rays spread across the sky, clashing with the calm blue of the ocean I heard the birds wake, greeting the sun and sea with their desperate cries. I watched as greater and lesser frigates took to the sky with turns.


The local guide gave us a nature walk, showing us the nests of various birds, some with mothers laying, others with chicks sitting, puffed out in their down feathers, gawking at us. The island hummed with life, as crabs scuttled under your feet with every step, pincers up. 





Giant tortoises moved too and fro, chomping on foliage, moving from shade to sun, sun to shade, a constant dance of body temperature regulation. 




The birds were everywhere, in the trees, resting, heads down eyes lowered, on the ground, wings spread wide in the direct sunshine tending to parasites. They were in the air, swooping and gliding, playing and dancing. They were in the water, diving for fish to feed their fluffy young. It was life as its meant to be. Loud, active and constant.


The birds were beautiful, but what really captured my heart were the turtles. The guide had told us the best turtle stop, but warned us of the currents past the red buoy. So, with that in mind, I donned my fins and snorkel and hit the water. Before I knew it, there was a juvenile green munching on some seagrass. We shared a moment as it sized me up and moved on, deciding I was more foe than friend. I paddled on. 




Another came into view through the murky visibility. Another green, bigger, older. It saw me, and I it, and in one swoop of its fins it was off. And so this was the trend for a while. I’d see a turtle, share a moment of mutual realisation of the others presence and it would swoop away.

But in time they grew to associate me as more friend than foe. Its one of the most basic instincts, habitualisation. With time it knew I was no longer a threat, and if anything became curious. The smaller ones still kept me at a distance, but the bigger ones grew curious of me circling me in these loops. The moments I shared with those turtles will stay with me forever. Their grace. Their gentle eyes. Their plight.



The rest of the weekend was spent relaxing, enjoying nature and soaking up the sunshine. The island itself isn't that big, but there were hours when I didn't see another person, just me, the birds and sea. I loved it.




So, as we clambered back on the plane after two nights in paradise I smiled. What a perfect way to spend three days and to settle back into my own skin and remember my place among all this beauty.


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