Turmeric and travelling

The sun sits just above the roof of the hostel, an amber ball trying to burn through the heavy set smog that hangs over Chiang Mai. Today I'm in Thailand, yesterday I was in India. A new land, a new adventure, the same sun.

For the last two weeks since leaving the GVI project in Fort Cochi. I have been travelling with friends. I realised, upon reflection that I've never really travelled. I've always traveled to places to play sport, volunteer, study or live. Miles, my little brother, recently said to me "sorry Tina, my idea of a holiday doesn't include manual labour." Point taken, so I left the GVI house, rucksack on my back, ready for a travellers life.

I met up with Laura, a friend I made while volunteering for Azafady in Madagascar in 2010. We only knew each other for 3 weeks but in the time that has passed we have skyped for hours, exchanged essay emails and nurtured a great friendship. I met Emily, her travel buddy for the next 7 months, a lovely English girl, fresh out of uni, and Kat, another more reserved English girl, fresh out of uni, with a well hidden heart of gold.

Emily and Kat were sick, and I was sad and only Laura held fort for the sane and well. For a night we stayed in Fort Kochi, cursing the heat before jumping on a train south to the beautiful beaches of Varkala. I was happy to return, and we spent 4 nights enjoying time to get healthy again, mourn and read. I spent the mornings walking the beach, and the day hiding from the strong midday sun, reading in the shade, breathing in the sea air, lost in the story and the sound of the waves.

Upon reflection it was what we needed. After we headed north again to Allepey and boarded a house boat. Kerala is known for its beautiful backwaters that span for kilometres. It was a magical 24 hours, full of great traditional food, bracelet making and building our friendship. It was the first time we were all well and happy enough to truly enjoy each others company. And it was beautiful.

The boat we were on was just lovely, we glided through the backwaters, between half grown rice fields, that perfect bright green. We waved at fellow tourists soaking up the views on their houseboats and locals as they washed their clothes in the waters, all the while criss crossing the waters.

We saw herons and ibis hunting and waiting. We saw school kids in little canoes ferrying across the water to get home. It felt like we were in another world, everything slowing to the hum of the engine.

When back on land we spent the morning posting stuff home- I had 25 letters and 20 postcards and a parcel to send- before boarding a bus to Kumily, to the east. The bus driver hurled along in the mid afternoon head. I sat wedged between Laura and an Indian woman who proceeded to fall asleep on my shoulder. The bus sped through villages, stopping randomly it seemed, and as we climbed into the mountains it cooled.

We arrived in Kumily, tummy knotted from the hairpin bends, exhausted and looking rather windswept. We were offered cheap accommodation, took it and found ourselves in a lovely little home stay "7 minutes walk from town". For the next 4 nights we stayed in Kumily, next to Periyar national park.

One morning we got up early for a "nature walk" (emphasis on walk) where we saw monkeys, elephant poop and got a chance to stroll around the giant man made lake. It was good to get out and the cobwebs in the morning light was breathtaking. Other days we spent spice shopping and testing local hole in the wall food spots.

It was lovely to be in the cooler climate, surrounded by trees, waking to the whoop of birds and crows of rooster. But in a blink we were back on the bus and heading back to Fort Kochi. The girls had to go north and I had to fly to Thailand. So, after nearly two weeks I ran along the side of their train, wishing them sell on the next leg of their trip. As I turned, tears filled my eyes and I realised, again I was saying goodbye.

Laura, you are amazing, thank you for everything. You are one of my best friends, and your effortless, constant smile is a reminder to me that life's good, but its better with friends like you. Emily, you are on the brink of so much. Don't be afraid to now know what you want to do, you'll figure it out. In the meantime keep laughing that nerdy laugh. Kat, despite our rocky start, you're all right (queue cheeky punch to the arm). Although you hide it behind your silly scowl, I know you've a heart of gold, thank you for sharing it with me.

And the next day, I boarded a plane and bid farewell to Fort Kochi and India.

As I made my way here I reflected on my time in India. I remember talking to Laura when she first arrived, she said the best advice she got before coming to India was that its ok to love it sometimes and loath it the next. And it hit me, I have a love hate relationship with India. One minute I love it- the chai, the parotha, the kind people. The next I hate it- the sewage smell, the ever persistent shop keepers and tuk-tuk drivers.

And that's ok. So as I drank delicious chai at the airport I loved it, and as I got called a bitch by an Indian business man who I stepped in front of in a queue after he tried jumping in front of me, I left with that same love hate, knowing its intensity to the fullest.

India is an incredible place. Incredibly poor, and rich. Incredibly humble, and in your face. Incredibly happy, and mournful. Incredibly colourful and dull. So as I embrace the contrast and acknowledge the love hate revelation, I realise that the challenges I faced while there are probably the ones that will amount to the greatest self reflection and growth, with time.

So, in advance, thank you India for reminding me the world isn't all black and white. Its full of a plethora of incredible greys too.

Turmeric and travelling